Rachel Roddy presents a delightful salad recipe featuring puntarelle, radicchio, celery, apple, and cheese. This vibrant dish not only celebrates fresh ingredients but also honors the legacy of Charlie Hicks, a beloved figure in the world of produce.
For many food enthusiasts, Charlie Hicks is a familiar name, thanks to his role on Veg Talk, a weekly program aired on Radio 4 from 1998 until 2005. The genesis of this show, as noted by Sheila Dillon, arose from her engaging conversation with Charlie, a fourth-generation supplier of fruits and vegetables at Covent Garden market. In a memorable episode of The Food Programme, Sheila explored where chefs sourced their ingredients and was captivated by Charlie's extensive knowledge and passionate communication style. This prompted her to share her experience with colleagues at Radio 4, leading to the creation of Veg Talk, which examined the trends in fresh produce. Each episode featured Charlie’s insightful market updates alongside a “vegetable of the week” segment and included guest appearances from renowned chefs such as Angela Hartnett, Alastair Little, Rose Gray, Darina Allen, and Mitch Tonks. Additionally, the show welcomed calls from eager listeners, creating an interactive platform for all things vegetable-related.
While the show garnered its share of criticism—most notably from broadcaster Andy Kershaw who once remarked in a 2005 interview with the Independent that "This show should have been strangled at birth"—it also amassed a devoted fan base, myself included. Listeners tuned in primarily for Charlie’s invaluable insights, honed through decades of experience in the markets, his culinary adventures with his wife Anna, and his conversations with growers. His blend of practical advice and scholarly insight, coupled with his witty humor and warm conversational style, made for a captivating listening experience.
Another significant piece of my personal connection to Charlie came from Carla Tomasi, a talented cooking instructor and gardener based in Rome. In the 1980s, Charlie was a key supplier for her restaurant Frith’s located in Soho. Though Frith’s wasn’t strictly an Italian establishment, it heavily incorporated flavors from Carla’s rich Roman-Marchigiana-Sardinian heritage. Charlie was instrumental in providing her with exceptional ingredients like bitter greens, blood oranges, fresh beans, radicchio, rocket, artichokes, and puntarelle.
Interestingly, my first interaction with Charlie stemmed from his interest in puntarelle, or cicoria di catalogna—the chicory family member that resembles an elongated head of lettuce encased in dark, serrated outer leaves that are quite bitter. These surround tender, pale green tubes that are slightly less bitter and possess tips akin to asparagus. The moment he reached out to me, seeking to discuss this unique vegetable for his greengrocer's newsletter, I realized how knowledgeable he was about puntarelle, especially considering that Carla grew it in her garden near Rome. Together, they seemed to think I had something worth contributing to the conversation.
Our dialogue revolved around the traditional Roman preparation of puntarelle: slicing the inner tubes into strips, soaking them in cold water, and dressing them with a mixture of anchovy, garlic, olive oil, and either lemon juice or vinegar. We also discussed how the outer leaves, particularly the smaller ones, can enhance a salad despite their bitterness, especially when paired with sweeter elements such as apples or persimmons. I’ve also enjoyed combining these ingredients with cheese, and even adding radicchio with a touch of honey dressing.
This week’s recipe is a heartfelt tribute to Charlie, capturing the essence of his culinary philosophy through a simple yet flavorful salad.
Puntarelle, Radicchio, Celery, Apple, and Cheese Salad
Serves 4
- 1 head of puntarelle or frisée
- 1 small head of radicchio
- 2 celery stalks
- 1 crisp red apple
- ½ lemon
- 100g cheese (options include pecorino, grana padano, asiago, or manchego)
- 6 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
- 2 tsp runny honey
- Salt to taste
- 100g walnut halves
Start by preparing the puntarelle. Remove the tough outer leaves, discarding any that are damaged, and separate the lighter inner tubes. Trim the ends and cut these tubes into short lengths or at an angle. Break the radicchio into individual leaves and wash all produce thoroughly before drying; larger leaves can be torn into smaller pieces for easier serving.
Next, slice the celery stalks thinly at an angle after removing any strings, and quarter the apple without peeling it. After removing the core, slice the quarters thinly, rubbing them with lemon juice to prevent browning. Use a potato peeler to create thin, uneven slices of your chosen cheese.
In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, honey, and a pinch of salt. Add the prepared leaves and toss them well in the dressing. Then, incorporate the celery, apple slices, and walnuts, tossing again to combine. Finally, sprinkle half of the cheese over the salad, give it one last gentle toss, and serve immediately on a large platter or divide among four smaller plates, garnishing with the remaining cheese on top.
